Saturday, October 28, 2006

The Undead Life

Greetings, O ye fortunate fodder,

If you’ve ever had a pleasant thought directed in my vicinity, I’d kindly ask you to forgive any errors of wit, logic, or spelling that might be contained within this epistle. I’m certain that I’ve slept somewhat more than 20 minutes in the last 3 weeks, but at the moment, I wouldn’t bet my paycheck on it.

Things are going reasonably well here. Classes have started at Isik, and I’ve got scarcely a moment to myself. Of course, I’m only teaching 7 ½ hours a week, but somehow I find myself uncharacteristically busy. How’s that, you ask? Booming social life? Jet-set cocktail nights, 5-star dinners in hotel ballrooms, and a circuit of academic lectures around the intellectual capital of the old Ottoman Empire (those hats weren’t just for show, you know). Ah, no.

And, just to satisfy your curiosity, I’m also not spending my time feeding the poor, sheltering the homeless, or seducing a score of women behind my girlfriend's back. However, I can, without the slightest doubt in my mind, tell you that my office walls are beige. A very light beige, as it were, which nicely matches the wooden desks and white ceiling. How can I be so sure? How can I so explicitly remember the color of my office walls?

I stare at them. All day long.

Look at my works, ye mighty, and despair!

Yes, O my good friends and bitter enemies, my day begins at 5:50 AM, minus a snooze or two, whereupon I rush madly around my apartment getting dressed, making coffee, showering, shaving (if I’m lucky), ironing, smoking, and enviously watching my girlfriend sleep. At 6:50, I emerge into the foggy Istanbul morning and have a brisk stroll down a series of streets, passages, parking lots, and underpasses, until, 20 minutes later, I arrive at the spot where my service bus collects me.

The bus ride isn’t so bad, really. Yes, it’s a hour and a half, and yes, the coffee that I MUST drink before I can leave the house prevents me from falling into anything but the most superficial sleep, but at least I can study my Turkish book, or stare out the window at the rain-soaked, fog-ridden, accident-prone highway to Sile, my little slice of the Black Sea.

Two short hours after boarding the bus, my day officially begins. Most days, I find myself in front of a class at 9:00 AM, which is (sarcasm aside), really the perfect way to begin the day. And that class fills the next 2 ½ hours of my life, until suddenly, as if no time had passed at all, it’s lunchtime, and my colleagues and I amble off down to the cafeteria to wait in line for half an hour, amidst the screaming, cursing, blubbering, oooof-ya-ing, intellectual paragons of the new generation of Turks.

The food is the highlight of my day. It’s fresh, it’s delicious, it’s plentiful, and it’s free. And I’m getting fat… But, I really need to stuff myself with calories because of the long day ahead of me. See, when I finish my lunch at 12:30, I always head straight back to my office so that I can prepare myself for the afternoon.

Which consists of staring at the wall, and not a damn thing else.

Oh, well, actually, I drink coffee and smoke cigarettes too. Sometimes I chat with my office mates, who apparently have a lot more practice dealing with being absolutely useless. See, Isik University anticipated an enrollment of 500 this year for the EFL department, and therefore created 15 new jobs, giving us over 50 teachers. In reality, there were 163 new students enrolled, meaning that about 50 people are doing the work of approximately 15. And, O O O O that Ottoman rag, it’s so myopic, so completely idiotic! Viddy this, my assuredly appalled Anglo-Saxons (et al.), no matter my actual teaching schedule, no matter the actual amount of work assigned to me, the director (whose job appears to be to study the field across the street through his panopticonic window, squeezing out little rumbling snorts of laughter and derision) would have his senses extremely offended if I were to think about actually leaving before 4:30.

Ah, but when 4:30 comes, what fun to be had! I, along with a handful of colleagues, fasten our bags, don our coats, and erupt out of the EFL building’s front door, only to face the throng of half-evolved (but they’re trying so hard!) simian students, chortling, shouting, and chain-smoking, as they wait for the ONE BUS (30 seats, give or take) that will carry them into the City, Istanbul, where they can fulfill their young, burgeoning, fleshy appetites by engaging in such carnal activities as drinking tea, and ambling about aimlessly through the dusty streets of a forgotten capital. Oh, Discordia!

Sometimes, I get lucky, and I can “accidentally” step on a few toes, creating a big enough wedge to actually enter the gelatinous mass, and building up enough momentum to carry me into the bus, whereupon the second part of my trial begins. Over the last few weeks, their frontal lobes have clearly developed enough that they now carry their friend’s bags onto the bus with them, throw them onto the seat next to them, and stare at the ground, as we teachers scour the bus for an empty seat; however, if I fail at the much more difficult task of wresting a knapsack out of a reasonably inviting seat, as I often do, I must leave the bus, and patiently wait another 45 minutes, until the personnel buses come, upon which I’m almost guaranteed a seat.

The aforementioned personnel bus should drop me off only a convenient 20 minute walk away from my house at approximately 6:30. But, assuming that the sun has risen that morning, and that hell is still a HOT fairy tale, traffic will be gridlocked by the time I make it back to Istanbul. Usually, however, the traffic only adds about an extra half an hour to my commute time, for which I suppose I should be thankful.

Thus, at about 7:20, I put my key in the door, trudge up three flights of stairs, emerge into my apartment, and flop into my bed or onto the floor, depending how far I get. With a heroic effort, I often manage to stay awake for a few hours, battling the headache from all the coffee, the hours in a bus, and the gasoline fumes from waiting in traffic, although I’m pretty much useless to do anything besides ordering food off the internet and staring blankly at my roomates while they amuse themselves. By approximately 11:00, I am sprawled across my bed, rumpled sheets haphazardly draped across my fully clothed body, occasionally throwing open one eye and muttering nonsensical phrases like, “have you got any more sauce? I’d like to see the garden hose…”

Yes, yes, yes, I know, I only work 4 days a week, so it can’t be too bad, right? My evenings are (useless) free, and I can do whatever I want all weekend long (sit at home and giggle naughtily). Still… You spend 20 hours a week in a bus, and then let’s talk about job satisfaction.

Respectfully, though exasperatedly yours,
Aaron Bey

Monday, October 16, 2006

Neden gittim Istanbul'dan?

If you'll recall, last episode ended with our hero, Aaron, perched precariously on the edge of Europe, weaving his way throughout the former USSR, preparing to chart out the nuclear wastelands of Oleksy Koslov’s former home, The Ukraine, and to make his final journey back to Istanbul olde style, by crossing the Black Sea by boat (read: dirty, stinky, prostitute-ridden freighter). Did he succeed? Or was he trapped forever behind a paper curtain of visa problems? Find out in our latest installment of the ongoing Stumble!

There I was, my friends, sitting in downtown Moscow (which is only close to the most depressing place on Earth), taking it all in – Red Square, St. Basil’s Cathedral, Gorky Park, and the ubiquitous Makgovalds (10 points if you can guess what that is – but the Americans have the advantage), and merrily passing the vodka bottle around every chance I got. Yet, all the wonder, excitement, and and passion was... strangely absent. The air was positively NOT crackling with possibility. Why, you ask? Truth is, I don’t rightly know.

Yeah, there were adventures (I bribed my first Russian police officer!), and there were new experiences (slept like a dirty animal on the cheap train to Moscow – whoever heard of 4th class???), and there were cool people (oh, Roger, you bipolar little Gary Coleman, you), but the majority of my days were being spent drinking coffee in the hostel and watching the hours tick by.

So, what happened? How did I deal with my newly-acquired ennui? My friends, I did what any self-respecting backpacker would do. I packed my shit and left. It involved nearly 72 hours straight on trains of every make, model, and mold (especially in the toilets) possible, but I zoomed out of Russia, bounced across The Ukraine, made a quick detour due to thunderstorms brewing on the Black Sea, slipped around Moldova (visa problems), and shot straight down from L’vov to Istanbul, with a brief, harrowing stay in the sketch capital of the world (and Romania), Bucharest.

What does this mean for your far-flung friend? Will he pack it all in and return to America with his tail between his legs? Assuredly not, ye creatures of little faith. I’m no less enthusiastic about seeing the world, and certainly no more eager to do it by package tour, but traveling alone just doesn’t cut it like it used to. Traipsing around when you’re fresh faced and naive is one thing, but when you’re plodding across Red Square, thinking, “Gee, I sure wish I could just order a pizza and kick back with my girfriend tonight,” you might start to think about reevaluating your ideas about travel...

Anyhow, like a Republican running from a well-informed populace, I shot back to Istanbul quick-like. Oh, how uncharacteristically happy I was when I asked our conductor, “Turk misiniz?” and he replied, “evet!” Oh, to see the Bosphorous again! How was it that I had spent my last year singing Neden Geldim Istanbul’a and was now bouncing up and down on the ferryboat as I prepared to return to ancient Chalcedon? Ok, ok... I’m sure it had a lot to do with people who were waiting there for me, but those predictably Turkish faces which used to inspire me with such ire now positively delighted my sensibilities! (That has since disappeared, by the way)

So, having returned to Istanbul, I spent 2 full weeks lounging around, drinking coffee, and being... bored. Ack! What was going on? How had that bloody emotion followed me across an entire continent? Sure, this time I was bored with my friends around, but the lethargy was only growing.

Fortunately, after the longest two weeks of my life, I started my new job at Isik University, which kept me busy all day... Busy drinking coffee, smoking cigarettes, and staring at the ground, waiting for the bus to come. Every morning, I had to jump on the bus at 7:00 AM and commute for 1 ½ hours, all the way anticipating 7 ½ hours of NOTHING (except the odd meeting), until the bus came to pick me up at 4:30, whereupon I would be promptly dropped off 10 minutes from my house at nearly 6:00 PM. So, now I actually had to commute to be bored! Arrrgghhh!

But, my faithful audience, you can stop wringing your hands and tearing your clothes. Everything has settled into place now. After a solid month of wall-staring on the bench outside the EFL building (I didn’t even have an office), I am now comfortably situated, reasonably occupied, exceedingly satisfied, and inordinately happy. After a month of Thomas and I annoying my girlfriend and all her flatmates with our prolonged presence, we now inhabit a moderately fashionable place near the seaside, containing 3 bedrooms, 2 balconies, 1 hot water heater, and very little chance of an electrical fire (though the lights do flicker, Allah korusun!)

And now, ye faithful souls who have bared the horrors contained within this epistle, I fear I must take my leave of you and return to the workaday world! Finally! For those of you who might ever be stricken by the urge to play the PTT (Turkish Postal Service) lottery, I shall forward along my address:

6/10 Şifa Sk.
Caferağa, Kadıköy
İstanbul, Türkiye

Hope you’re all getting happier as you’re getting older! Long days and pleasant nights!